A Little more of Spain

3 to 5 May – Verin

We left Salamanca in a hire car, aiming to explore Galicia, a part of Spain that had intrigued me.

And we were treating ourselves, staying in Spain’s wonderful Paradors.

Our first stop was the Parador de Verin in a small town just north of the border with Portugal. The rather officious car rental lady had made it clear we could not cross the border. Ho hum…

The parador felt very ‘50s in style, with typical heavy wooden furniture and casement windows. Our outlook took in a view to the Monterrei Castle which is currently being renovated. How I’d love to go back on its completion.

We drove into town and found somewhere to park our car then breakfast. Orange juice, a croissant and coffee always tastes wonderful!

Then for our biggest surprise. Probably shows how little research we had done. I noticed a “Banksy”, then another, then another. We were in 7th heaven exploring these wonderful pieces of art. We are great fans of Banksy and had enjoyed exploring his art in his home city of Birmingham. we’d also seen exhibitions in Berlin (not authorised) and Lausanne (authorised).

With the help of Google translate we soon understood that the city council had sponsored local artist Alex Araújo to recreate 23 works by Banksy. Verín territorio Banksy was designed to decorate the town in 2022. It was a fantastic way to explore the cobblestone streets of this lovely place. Unsightly walls and crumbling buildings were taken over by the art. Maps at various locations helped guide us from one piece of art to another.

We included a stroll around the market in Plaza Garcia Barbón and a walk along the beautiful Rio Tâmega that our parador overlooks.

In the Plaza Obrigdas there was a wonderful mural dedicated to the Entroido carnival in February where the Cigarróns wear wooden painted masks and urge people to join in. We also found a statue to the Cigarrón, showing his mask.

5 to 7 May – Ferrol and A Coruña

The weather was best described as inclement – grey and sometimes wet. Our drive was to our next destination along the Atlantic coast at Ferrol. We stopped in Santiago de Compostela, the famous pilgrim destination. I have no intention of walking 1,000 kilometres or even 100 kilometres, perhaps I’d have taken that challenge some years earlier. But I was interested to see the town.

We waited for the rain to clear as we enjoyed a coffee and biscotti at the quaint Morriña café.

We probably didn’t do the town justice as we dodged puddles and dripping eaves on a very wet afternoon.

The town is quaint – cobbled streets and beautifully arched colonnades. The cathedral, famous for it’s daily services of welcoming pilgrims, is gold and glitzy in true Spanish style.

We had a typical bocadillo de jamon (ham roll) and watched the pilgrims, wet and soggy, arrive at their destination, complete with back packs, walking sticks, shells and plastic rain hoods.

Our Parador de Ferrol was rather modern compared to many of the palaces and convents we have stayed in. It was a stately home set in La Magdalena neighbourhood of the maritime port. The view from our room was modest, however the parador offered a wonderful view across the port. Next door was Cuerda Floja, a brewpub, specialising in Brew Dog craft beer, Bruce’s favourite. Across the road was the Parque Raiña Sofía (Queen Sofia park), rather tired but with an ostentation of peacocks who had taken up residence.

The area was up market and to our delight we found the wonderful Lusitania Café for breakfast. We were given a very warm welcome when we returned the next day.

In a park nearby we found the Monumento á música tradicional ferrolaná, created by sculptor Francisco Pérez Porto in 2007. It’s composed of numerous small ceramic figures depicting children playing various instruments typical of Ferrol’s music. I loved it – just a fun piece.

We took a day trip to A Coruña. Our first stop after coffee was the very quirky Praza do Humor or Square of Captivating Humour. It was designed in the early 1990s by local writer and cartoonist Siro López. The small square is an assembly of statues, installations and pavement artwork, representing cartoon characters and prominent Galician figures.  Asterix and Obelix, Mafalda, and the Flintstones were all there.

We wandered around the tiny streets, wishing we could stay longer to taste the many seafood delicacies.

One of A Coruña’s biggest attractions is the Hercules Tower. It was built in the 1st century AD to serve as a landmark to the entrance of the A Coruña harbour. It is the only Roman lighthouse still in existence and operating, today.

The tower is in a sculpture park. The piece that intrigued me most was Breogan, by Xosé Cid in 1995.

An interpretative sign had the following information in English:

According to the Lebor Gabala Erenn or The Book of Invasions of Ireland:
The descendants of Gaedheal Glas, the father of the Gaels, sailed from the farthest Eastern European corner to Hispania. The expedition was headed by Brath, ‘the victorious’, the noble son of Death ‘the Faithful’.
Then Breoghan, son of Brath, was born and fought numerous harsh battles against all kinds of armies in Hispania. Breoghan had ten sons, amongst whom we could mention Ithe and Bile, father of Mil whose sons in turn were known as Milesians.
Breoghan founded Brigantia and had a tower built in front of it – a pleasant and delightful dwelling and a place to watch and outlook. One clear evening Ithe was gazing at all four directions from the top of the tower when he thought to perceive, amongst the mists, a solitary island. He told his brothers and set for Ireland with his son Lugaid and other fellows. There he was attacked by a group of local noblemen and died on board. The expedition returned to Brigantia and showed his lifeless body to the family, who decided to go back to Ireland and avenge his death. After the victory, the Milesians settled for good in Ireland.

7 to 10 May – Benavente

Our last stop was the Parador de Benavente. This one appealed to me because it looked rather like an old castle, similar to Parador Zafra where we stayed in 2024. There is a solitary tower left in the castle, which now housed a comfortable bar.

We explored the town in the late afternoon. The Plaza Mayor (main square) was being repurposed for an event, which made photos of the surrounding buildings rather disappointing.

A statue to Fray Toribio de Motolina outside the Iglesia de San Juan del Mercado remembers this Franciscan missionary who documented the local customs and traditions after the conquest of Mexico.

To quote:

“Let the holy Gospel be preached throughout these lands; those who do not willingly hear the holy Gospel of Jesus Christ, let it be by force; for here the proverb applies: better good by force than evil by choice.”

Toribio de Benavente Letter from Friar Toribio de Motolinia to Emperor Charles V , January 1555

The part of missionaries “saving souls” has always bothered me. It was why I gave up the religion I was brought up to. It also bothered Friar Bartolomé de las Casas, who in the 16th century, denounced the crimes committed by the Spanish conquistadors.

Our Parador was set high on a hill on the edge of the village. We discovered a beautiful park and an interesting children’s playground, which was fenced off while some garden remodelling was happening. One of the disadvantages in travelling off season.

A festivity that Benevente is famous for is the Toro Enmaromado (Bull on a Rope), which takes place on the Wednesday before Corpus Christi (60 days after Easter). This centuries old festival features a bull running on a rope through a designated street circuit – the runners are either brave or mad.

A park on the other side of the river looked interesting, so when the rain subsided, we explored it. A classic and photographic Puento de peidra stone bridge crossed the Rio de Don Felipe. The park afforded lovely views of the castle and its solitary tower, but it was a soggy, muddy meander.

We scrambled back to the parador before another wild rain storm swept through. It was beer o’clock.

On our return to Madrid to fly home, we took a coffee break in a village famous for its wine, called Rueda. It was Saturday and clearly the village was preparing for a celebration. It seemed worth hanging around. We had the pleasure of watching a wedding procession, complete with a band and young girls in traditional dress carrying garlands of flowers. Such a treat.

I was surprised at how densely forested the surrounds of Madrid were as we drove in. In retrospect, we were driving through what was to be severely burnt just 3 months later, in Europe’s horrifying drought and heatwave.

11 May – going home

That should be the end of the story. A final night in Madrid before boarding our flight home.

We had booked flights with Etihad, as they offered the best connections and shortest travel time from Melbourne via Doha to Tunisia and home from Madrid via Doha to Melbourne.

Two days after we arrived in Tunisia, Donald Trump and his Israeli counterpart Benjamin Netanyahu attacked Iran.

As the war progressed, we became increasing concerned about our flight home. If we became marooned in the Middle East, the Australian Government would not offer consular assistance, and our travel insurance did not cover claims brought on by acts of war. We claimed a refund on our return journey and bought Cathay Pacific flights via Hong Kong home.

After boarding our flight we sat on the tarmac in Madrid for 5½ hours while a technical issue was attended to. Finally, our captain announced that he wasn’t happy with tests carried out on the repair and Cathay Pacific would get us all to our destination by booking us on other flights.

Our flight was with Emirates!

We were assured that the next 24 hours in the Middle East would be safe. Airlines share information and know of current risks and dangers.

Dubai airport was like a ghost town, with vendors begging us to stop and shop or eat.

The flight from Dubai on a massive A380 was empty. Economy class had a mere 43 passengers.

We arrived home safely and somewhat more relaxed, having so much space to stretch out.

A weekend in Salamanca

29 April – 3 May

After five wonderful weeks in Granada with family and a few minor adventures, we headed to parts of Spain unknown to us.

Denis had suggested meeting “somewhere”, but his initial suggestions were places we had visited. Fortunately, Salamanca was on both of our must do lists.

For us it was a couple of train rides. The connection times in Madrid weren’t friendly so we spent a night there and spread our journey over two days.

We were delighted with our chosen AirBnB, on the very edge of the old town of Salamanca and just a few minutes’ walk from the beautiful Plaza Mayor.

Martine, the inveterate traveller, quickly learnt how to navigate the old town and made sure we saw what was important and ate what was important.

So our precious few days together started with a friendly beer in the plaza and a reconnoiter of the old town. We visited the Catedral Nueva de la Asunción de la Virgen, including climbing its tower to get a wonderful view over the city.

We found the Frog at the Universidad Civil. It was quite a funny experience as a crowd was there, each pointing out its position to the newcomers.

We popped into the local parish church of San Benito. The ladies there were very happy to see visitors. Of all the magnificent churches you see, it is humbling to visit a simple place of worship.

One highlight was a visit to the fantastic Casa Lis-Museo de Art Déco y Art Nouveau. No photos permitted, although I have “borrowed” a few from their official website – https://www.museocasalis.org/, just to show some of the magnificent stuff on display.

We wandered across the 1st century Puente Romano which crosses the Río Tormes. It is guarded by the Verraco del puente (Boar of the Bridge or the Bull of Salamanca)

Of course we ate well, starting with a gastranomic meal at Madre Mía Gastrotaberna, eating Bocadillo Jamon in the Plaza del Corrillo, a delicious dinner on the street at Delicatessen Restaurant in Calle Meléndez. We had a big finale dinner to celebrate Martine’s 75th birthday at Mesón Cervantes in the plaza.

There were ice creams and coffees and wines and beers and “tinto de Verano” along with tapas nibbles in between.

Salamanca is certainly one of Spain’s gems. Wikipedia describes it:

The University of Salamanca, founded in 1218, is one of the oldest in Western Europe, and the Old City of Salamanca is UNESCO World Heritage Site, which every year attracts a significant number of students and cultural tourists

There have been settlements found from the iron age and an urban settlement dated to 3rd century BC under the influence of the Celtic tribes.

The Roman empire stretched into northern Iberia. It was an important part of the north-south Via de la plata (derived from the Arabic word al-Balat – the paved road). It was here the Roman bridge was built to assist travellers.

After the Muslim invasion in 712AD, Salamanca was reduced to an unimportant centre. It was revitalized with the victory of the Catholics around the 10th and 11th centuries.

The university which was established in 1218 gained wide recognition for intellectual studies over the following years. Some notable events include:

  • Creation of the first grammar of a Western European language (1492)
  • Preparations for Christopher Columbus’ voyage for the discovery of the Americas (1492)
  • Study by Hernán Cortés before conquering the Aztec Empire (approx. 1520)
  • Francisco de Vitoria who participated in the Council of Trent conceptualised natural law, renewed theology and the foundations of international law (1545-1563)
  • Mathematicians of the university proposed the Gregorian calendar (1582)
  • Partial translation of the bible to Spanish (mid 16th century)
  • Miguel de Cervantes, author of Don Quixote of la Mancha was a student at the university (late 16th century)

Today it is a popular university city and a place to study the Spanish language. I reckon it’d be a nice place to spend some time.

Photos were not permitted in this beautiful mansion-museum. These photos are from their website https://www.museocasalis.org/:

And our photos from Salamanca.

Hanging out in Granada

28 March – 29 April

Like so many other cities where our children have parked themselves, Granada is becoming a home away from home.

In 2005 Hayden moved to London and we enjoyed exploring his world there. He moved to Barcelona in 2007, and during a number of visits until 2015, it became a familiar town.

His next stop was Berlin between 2015 and 2022. We walked and toured in and out of the city. We loved its quirkiness.

Meanwhile, between 2015 and 2020 Evan lived in New York, first in Harlem, then in Hell’s Kitchen. We used our visits to drive west, north, east and south, covering most states.

Granada is small and doesn’t offer a lot more than the Alhambra and the Cathedral, but somehow, we manage to entertain ourselves and make new discoveries.

We timed our visit to see Semana Santa, the famous Spanish Easter parades. We also made our regular visit to the Science Park.

But other highlights this visit included the Spring flowers and the greening of the city after a cold winter. An odd statue dedicated to children learning and a little square such as the one dedicated to Fray Luis de Granada and its tight little streets captured our attention.

We visited Cuarto Real de Santa Domingo Royal Quarter of Saint Dominic, and for the ridiculous entry fee of €2 we entered a beautiful garden. The 13th century Nasrid palace was built for King Muhammad II, before the Alhambra. It was converted to the Convent of Santa Cruz la Real after the 1492 Christian conquest.

The Granada City Council purchased property in 1990 and conducted an archaeological excavation. A Moorish qubba or reception hall has now been preserved.

The highlight of our visit there was the historical exhibition of Granada as a tourist destination in the 19th century. Romantic tours captured the personal experiences of the budding tourist industry. Despite an arduous and often dangerous journey from the coast, the reward for the growing bourgeoisie class was touring the Alhambra and the gypsy caves. Artists of all disciplines were drawn to this unique setting. The exhibition information as a travel brochure describes it:

Granada and Romanticism. Travel in the 19th Century

Romanticism was a cultural and artistic movement at the end of the 18th century and reached its peak in the mid-19th century. This movement stands out for its exaltation of subjectivity, individuality and feelings, elements that the romantics believed to be essential in their search for the sublime and transcendental. Romantic artists and writers focused their attention on nature, exotic landscapes and cultures steeped in history and mystery.

In this framework, Granada played an important role in the romantic collective. With its evocative Islamic past and the rich fusion of cultures that are reflected in monuments and landscapes, the city stood out as a benchmark for writers, artists and intellectuals of the time. Granada embodied the fundamental ideals of Romanticism.

The exhibition “Granada and Romanticism. Travel in the 19th Century” invites us to journey into the past, when the city became an epicentre of inspiration for travellers. Through a unique collection of original pieces, documents, sketches and photographs, the exhibition explores the profound influence that Granada held over those who visited it during the 19th century.

The exhibit not only presents the Granada that fascinated romantic travellers in the 19th century, but also offers a reflection on how that legacy is still alive today in the contemporary city. The pieces on display allow the visitor to discover how those early romantic “tourists” influenced the perception of the city, creating an image that has persevered until our days: a Granada full of contrast, beauty and mystery.

The new technologies play an essential role in bringing the public closer to the historic context in an interactive and didactic way. Visitors can immerse themselves in the atmosphere of the time through virtual recreations, audios and visual resources that complement the physical pieces on display, offering an immersive and enriching experience.

Bruce had been a reluctant visitor today, but we both enjoyed the visit.

I tried to purchase tickets to see the Alhambra. Only extraordinarily expensive privately conducted tours were available, so we thought better of that and leave a visit until next time, where hopefully we can book months in advance.

We did however discover a large section of the Alhambra is free and open to the public, and very much worth a visit.

The square façade of the Palacio de Carlos V, palace of Charles V surprises you when you enter into a beautiful circular courtyard. The building was commenced in 1526 as an extra royal residence. It was uninhabitable when Philip IV visited in 1628. The construction was abandoned in 1637, leaving the roof unfinished.

In 1923, nearly four centuries after it was commenced Leopoldo Torres Balbás devised a plan to recover the building. Balbás was a Spanish scholar, architect and restorer who focused much of his work on the al-Andalus Islamic era of Granada, including the Alhambra. It really is a beautiful building and well worth the long wait to be shown  off.

The palace hosted a number of exhibitions, including an informative insight into the importance of water in the gardens of the Generalife and the Alhambra. Islamic architects were famous for capturing and channelling water in their mostly dry climates. In this case they created magnificent gardens which are now the oldest surviving cultivated places in palaces in the entire world.

The exhibition included original artefacts from the Alhambra as well as model layouts of the palaces. We had an insight into the crafts of the Islamic construction process including marble sculptures, wooden and marble inlaid doors, carved window shades and the famous mosaic tiles.

There is even more to see in the open, free spaces of the Alhambra, which will have to wait for our next visit.

During our time in Barcelona, we learnt that bull fights in the Catalonian region are now banned. That isn’t the case in other regions of Spain. So after carefully studying the bus routes and timetables we visited the Plaza de Toros de Granada, Granada’s bull ring. It was closed and there were preparations in place for a concert within the bullring. But the building is typical of Spanish bullrings – a massive construction of decorative brick work with beautiful arches.

We then meandered down to the Avenida De La Constitucion. It’s a magnificent tree lined street with a rambla or pedestrian path down the centre. Statues of notable people include Napoleon III’s wife Eugenia de Montijo (born 1826 in Granada died 1920 in Madrid) and their famous bullfighter Salvador Sánchez Povedano (1842-1908).

We had a special request to visit the gardens of Carmen de los Mártires, to see some peacocks. It was a fun day, building little “tents” for the insects and animals that inhabit the gardens and chasing the peacocks.

We filled our time in Granada with visits to the school, including a demonstration of a drum lesson and reading “Bathtime for Little Rabbit”, in English, to the 2-year-olds. Bruce found some bunny ears to give the children a visual representation of the story.

We visited shopping destinations and parks, found fabulous new places to eat and drink as well as returning to old favourites.

We watched the snow melt on the Sierra Nevada and the snowmelt filling the streams.

Our family is well settled in Granada, so we will return as often as we can. And on each visit I guarantee we will find something new and interesting.

Our journey wasn’t over – we next journeyed to Salamanca then a tour around Galicia.

Easter processions and wax

29 March to 5 April 2026 (Easter Week)

We are amazed at the number of cars, buses and all sorts of vehicles that make a massive squeaky noise as they’re turning corners in the streets of Granada.

Hayden explained it was because of the wax.

Wax is a by-product of the famous Semana Santa (Holy Week) processions in Spain. We had timed our visit to see our family during the Easter processions in Granada.

There are 32 cofradías (brotherhoods) who parade over the eight days, between Palm Sunday and Easter Sunday. More than two thousand costaleros (volunteers) carry fifty-eight processional pasos (floats or thrones carrying Christ and the Virgin).

Men and women penitents are dressed in colourful robes with tall, conical hoods, as an act of repentance, many carry pillar candles or crosses. They are followed by women in black dresses and black mantillas (veils), also holding pillar candles or crosses, Children are sprinkled throughout the parade, wearing caped cloaks and carrying cards to hand out, representing their brotherhood. The older children carry lighters to reignite the candles.

The parades include large, impressive marching bands, playing powerful and emotional music. Apart from the music, the participants are silent, serious and look fully devoted.

We certainly didn’t see all the parades. For example Maundy Thursday has Cristo de Silencio, which is in silence with a single beating drum. Holy Saturday has a single parade, from the Alhambra, featuring the Virgin Mary.

We also came across the last parade on Easter Sunday. The black mantillas were replaced with white mantillas and the parade seemed to have a lighter note.

The pillar candles are very long at the start of the week. As the parade stops, which they frequently do, children come out to collect the wax falling off the candles. Some of the children had quite large balls of wax.

As the week progresses the candles get shorter, obviously the wax has fallen on the road.

This is the reason why the tyres squeak. Apparently, the wax gets into the tyres creating the noise and it continues for some days.

It was an amazing experience to watch colour and devotion, and to gain an understanding of this very Spanish culture.

Morocco in 1974

August 1974

With a pocket full of hard earned pounds, we took our combi van (PoGO) on a boat to Lisbon. A memorable journey as President Nixon was resigning. Where were you when that happened?

We meandered down the coast to the Algarve, discovering sardines, charged by the skeletons and cerveja (beer), charged by the empty bottles.

Bravado took us further, into Spain and to Algeciras. After watching a bull fight, we got chatting to some other Australian campers. Stories and artefacts swapped. Why not Morocco?

So onto a ferry and across the Mediterranean to discover another country.

At our first campsite, Bruce lifted the roof of our camper van, and suddenly we were surrounded by curious onlookers. We were just a curious about the camp sites complete with stunning rugs and cushions.

We drove along the Mediterranean coast until we reached the Atlas mountains. Turned right. Climbed them, dodging potholes, then crossed to Fez. Back to Tangiers before heading home.

It certainly was a culture shock – children selling hash hish, armed guards around our campsite in Fez and miles of desert where watermelon vines snaked around the sandy ground.

I found a postcard I had written home from Fez:

22 August 1974
Fez is very, very interesting – we can imagine ourselves walking through the bible, women with faces covered, men in long caftans and fez or turbans, kids begging and wanting to act as our guide. They’ll try speaking to you in French, German and English.
Incredible market selling fruit and meat covered in flies.
Donkeys are used as carriers and you can see a train of 3 or 4 of them walking through the streets of the medina (old town).
Women are very second rate.
All the animals are very thin.
We’ll leave Morocco next Friday, back home via Lisbon.
Not looking forward to cold England. Weather is very hot here.

I was not quite as careful annotating Bruce’s photos, but here they are: Morocco in 1974.

From Marrakesh to Tangiers

19 to 27 March 2026

The last part of our journey in Morocco was big cities, a change after deserts and mountains.

We started our tour of Marrakesh in the new town of Gueliz. Christians were not allowed to live in the old city, they had to live outside. In their early days they built churches, so this area takes its name from the French word for church église.

We were taken to admire the Katoubia Mosque. It’s the largest mosque here and one of the oldest in the world (built between 1184-1199). It is active, so not possible to visit inside.

Yves St-Laurent had retired here to Marrakesh. I really was looking forward to our visit to his gardens, Les Jardins Majorelle. It is a magnificent space of bamboo, cactus and very tall palms and a lot of running water. We saw frogs, fish, birds and turtles. I am sure YSL was inspired by these wonderful plants in his designs. The cactus appeared mostly to come from Mexico.

We were now contending with crowds of tourists, something we had not seen to date, and quite a challenge to take photos that didn’t include someone’s selfie.

We visited the Berber Museum within the gardens, which displayed a lot of artefacts from the most ancient people in North Africa. They were collected from the Rif Mountains to the Sahara by Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent. It was a wonderful follow up to our desert visits in Morocco and Tunisia. But, no photos.

The museum of Yves Saint Laurent was, at our visit, focused on his stage costumes starting with magnificent ballet costumes as a young man. I enjoyed seeing photos showing him as quite a young person. The museum included a fabulous display of outfits he designed for the French singer Sylvie Vartan and also for dancer and singer Zizi Jeanmaire. There was a lot of feathers and sequins in his costumes.

We spent the rest of the day wandering the medina and learning so much about North African life.

As we left Marrakesh we ran into a massive traffic jam – hundreds or even thousands of people streaming out of the Katoubia Mosque on the first day of Eid al-Fitr, marking the end of Ramadan. As we drove out of town we noticed children playing and snacking, We stopped at a café for coffee – finally coffee shops are open and men are smoking in the streets.

The people we spoke to about Ramadan have all said that it is actually a time of the year they like. It’s a time for reflection, spending time with the family, detoxing and generally looking after yourself.

Between Marrakesh and Fez we stopped at the Ksar El Aïn Asserdoun (fort) at Ben Mellal, a 17th century fortress perched on a clifftop to protect the local water supply. There was a mood of celebration on this holiday day, family groups, sharing selfies.

During Ramadan we have had to eat our lunch in private, but today we stopped at a restaurant en route and enjoyed the local salad and bread.

We were in a fertile area with groves of fruit trees, probably plums, cherries, apricots. Also cereal fields and a lot of sheep tended by shepherds. It is unusual to see sheep and goats fenced in.

We made an afternoon stop in Ifrane an alpine village at 1,680m. It looked more like France or Germany than Morocco, surrounded by cedar trees and with a tourist tram running in the streets.

After a mix up in hotels in Fez, we went out to find somewhere that served alcohol for dinner. Dinner at Restaurant L’Escale was a bonus when we met a delightful couple, Dan and Elizabeth from Romania. We returned the following two nights and enjoyed more lively conversations with our newest friends.

Our day in Fez was spent exploring the medina and the souks, rather quiet for the Eid holiday.

Our second day in Fez was a drive to Volubilis and Meknes.

Volubilis is the site of the most western Roman settlement found to date. It was developed for the all-important olives, native to this area. Our guide Mohammed was very informative and also sympathetic to our need to take photos. As well as interesting stories about the settlement, he pointed out Acanthus (specifically Acanthus mollis or Acanthus spinosus), often called Bear’s Breeches which he explained was the inspiration for the decoration on Corinthian columns.

One of our best lunches in Morocco was at the nearby Roman City Restaurant. A variety of pulses and meats in wonderful sauces and the all important Moroccan salad, washed down with their local lemon juice.

We were travelling through the middle Atlas mountains, a lower level fertile area, supporting olives and other fruits and cereal crops. Cows and sheep were tended by herders. Donkeys are an important local transport, particularly climbing up hilly paths between villages. We made an interesting stop at a roadside café/caravan, literally parked at an intersection in the middle of nowhere.

Our introduction to the blue village of Chefchaouen was at a lookout above the town where you can don Arabic style scarves and be photographed embraced by a heart.

Our driver helped us search for some beer or wine in Chefchaouen, but none could be found – a couple of dry nights awaited us.

We took a long walk through the main town, admiring the blueness of the local buildings.

The next day our driver took us up the hill, from where we could explore the old medina.

We stopped at the Ethnographic Museum in Plaza Uta el-Hammam, which was rather disappointing, however it was set in delightful Andalusian gardens of a 15th-century Kasbah. We climbed the beautiful Portuguese Tower for a view of the village.

The medina is a photographer’s paradise – beautiful blue and white buildings and colourful local artefacts. It was a great place to “get lost” and then find your way back.

We enjoyed our standard lunch of Moroccan salad with bread before returning to our hotel to rest before dinner.

It was a shorter drive to Tangiers and we arrived in time to take a short walk before settling into a more civilized bar and restaurant.

A famous part of this medina is the American Legation house. Morocco was the first country to offer the new United States a consulate.

Our day tour of Tangier took in the Medina, which is very much more orderly others we had visited. The influence of Europe was evident, as were the day trippers. It is a short boat trip from Algeciras in Spain. The OpenFerry web site says it all…

Prepare for a thrilling ferry journey between two continents! The trip from Algeciras to Tangier Med is your fast and direct gateway from the sunny shores of Spain to the vibrant heart of Morocco.
As you depart from the bustling port of Algeciras, you’ll be treated to a spectacular view of the iconic Rock of Gibraltar as you sail across the famous Strait. In no time at all, you’ll arrive at Tangier Med, Morocco’s modern and efficient port, just a short drive from the city of Tangier itself.
Here, a world of blended cultures awaits. Tangier is a city where historic medinas meet elegant boulevards, offering a unique mix of European and North African influences. Beyond the city, a landscape of adventure unfolds, offering easy access to the majestic Rif Mountains and the captivating blue town of Chefchaouen. Opting for the ferry means a seamless, stress-free journey with the freedom to bring your own vehicle. This short but scenic crossing is the perfect way to begin your Moroccan adventure, with the unique thrill of arriving by sea.

In the afternoon we toured around Tangiers, visiting Cap Spartel, where the Mediterranean Sea meets the Atlantic Ocean and the iconic Hercules Cave. New modern suburbs showed off a more wealthy part of Morocco – but it lacked the wonderful atmosphere the old cities have.

And it was back to our hotel for an early, with alcohol, dinner and preparation for an early departure for Spain. The only down side was the hideous Ryan Air flight.

This is a story about travelling from Marrakesh to Tangiers. I’ve written more about the medinas and souks of Marrakesh, Fez and Tangiers here.

Medinas of Morocco

19 to 26 March 2026

One of the joys of travelling is exploring the old market places that are the heart and soul of any city. We even enjoy wandering through a local supermarket and examining what is offered.

The medinas in Morocco and Tunisia are a little more complex than a simple market. They are in fact a city’s old town or historical centre. The souk or market is just a part of the town. There are also palaces, mosques and homes.

Visiting these medinas during Ramadan created further interest. There’s more to tell in this story. Here I have concentrated on the medinas. The next post tells of the journey from Marrakesh to Tangiers.

Marrakesh

Marrakesh’s medina is one of the most famous and certainly the craziest. When we visited it was full on with locals, tourists and motor scooters all competing for space along the twisted, narrow lanes. Really quite a challenge to not be lost or bowled over.

Meat hangs from hooks over the counter, colourful arrangements of fruit and vegetables are piled high, spices and incense arouse your senses and trades people continue their crafts.

Our guide, Fatima, pointed out some of the curiosities of Muslim life.

Homes are very private, and you don’t visit unless invited. However if you do visit you must use the outer door knocker, which sounds different to its counterpart on the inner door. This is a warning for the women to cover up and be modest for this visitor. The patterns on the door also indicate how many rooms are inside.

We were shown a hamman (bathing house). There are different entry times for men and women. Women will bring all they need, such as buckets to wash with, a plastic mat to stand on as well as changes of clothes and towels. You see them enter with large bags and young children. Men don’t bring their own buckets, they are provided.

The cleaning ritual is quite different from the daily shower, and can be regarded as an inner cleanse as well.

We stopped at the Ben Youssef Medersa. It was erected by Sultan Abdullah Al-Ghaleb Assaadi between the years 1564 and 1565 and was a specialised school for boys age 6 to 20, through scholarship or very high fees. The graduates were likely to become Imams. It closed in 1968 and was renovated and opened to the public in the 1980s. (https://www.medersabenyoussef.ma/en/histoire/)

The decorations were beautiful – intricately carved marble, brightly decorated cedar beams and colourful mosaics.

The area consisted of a large patio off the vestibule, with an Andalusian basin for ablutions. A prayer hall and student rooms. Upstairs, tiny student rooms were built around the circumference of the patio.

We visited the Herboriste La Sagesse, a spice store, where we were able to identify a lot of spices used in the local cuisine. Unfortunately we couldn’t purchase any – Australian’s are well known for looking not buying, due to our strict import regulations.

The shop was full of antiquities, such as old cameras, typewriters, scales and clocks. There was a lookout on the roof that afforded a wonderful view over the medina.

Another lonely lunch, just us sitting alone as the locals continued their Ramadan fast.. It really does leave you feeling rather awkward.

Fatima seemed to meander through the medina, pointing our leather shops (the tanners are in Fez), where the best leather comes from camels, followed by goats then cows. Then metal workers who make a comfortable living crafting jewellery and brass lanterns. Often apprenticing a son from as young as 6 to learn the trade.

The there are the wood carvers, making furniture, decorations for the home and even kitchen utensils.

We finished our tour in the Jemaa el-Fnaa (square) where there were the snake charmers and monkey handlers. It was a challenge to grab an indiscrete photo.

And to our delight, our hotel offered wine and beer with the meal. We had to endure a “tapas” style meal the first night – there simply weren’t enough visitors to open the restaurant. However we met Carlton, a proclaimed birder (twitter in Australia) from USA. He promised to call us up while he chases birds in Australia in October. Two very interesting nights with him, sharing our opinions on the demise of the USA political system.

Fez

Our day in Fez started with a visit to the gates of the largest Royal Palace in Morocco. The gates are brass, big and beautiful and a favourite selfie sight. Oh well, we just had to make do with details rather than the whole site.

Our guide, Fahed, then guided us through the old Jewish quarter. It was the end of Ramadan, and the anticipation of the Eid holiday. Many stalls were closed in the souk and the mood was quieter and less chaotic. But what was interesting was to see the medina without the distraction of the many stalls. The architecture stood out. The houses with their extended windows, the decorated doors, the arches.

We drove up to Borj Sud, the southern lookout, to get an understanding of the size of the medina. There are 900km of narrow, twisting streets and lanes, more than 40 mosques and about 9,400 houses. The size of it is astounding.

We returned to the old town to visit a pottery school, a little quieter today, but enough to demonstrate how the clay is made into tiles which are glazed and fires, then broken down to small pieces to make the mosaics.

We then wandered through the medina, learning how to recognise laneways that were dead ends, with hexagonal signs, and those that connected to other laneways. There were fruits stalls, olive stalls, butchers of chicken, goats and camels, and all types of sticky sweets.

We stopped for lunch at an old historic home, Ryad Nejjarine. We were served an enormous typical meal of soup, tajine and sweets in this beautifully ryad consisting of two floors of lavishly decorated rooms.

The ancient Qur’an school Madrasa al-Attarine was less crowded than it’s counterpart in Marrekesh so we had time to admire the beautiful architecture. These were schools where religion, the Arabic language, astronomy, mathematics, and medicine were taught.

We were treated to demonstrations of weaving at an old caravanserai (trading post). The weaving on display here is a male-dominated trade, whereas the traditional embroidery was often a hobby for wealthy women as well as professional embroiderers.

The famous tannery was quiet for the holiday – no smell! I was however amused that it was a meeting place for young men, who challenged each other hopping over the vats.

Meknes

Unfortunately, no guide appeared in Meknes and we were left to wander this ancient medina without any information. It was Sunday and still Eid, so most shops were closed however a friendly rug seller gave us some directions.

We did notice that the souk in Meknes was all about shopping for the locals, there were very, very few tourist type stalls. The clothes that were sold were intended to be worn locally with the sporty men’s gear and typical djellabas and kaftans for women. The were some butchers and fruit shops and a very popular bread shop open.

Tangiers

The white medina of Tangiers was far more ordered and the more palatial residences stood out. Ramadan had finished so there was a massive selection of cafes and coffee houses.

Our guide was an older gentleman and he took us for a quiet and easy stroll through the medina. He started pointing out the French Cafe famous with writes in the early 20th century and Villa France the 5-star hotel that Matisse made his home for 2 years.

We viewed the 9th April Square and then wandered into the food market and on to the American Legation house. Morocco was the first country to recognise the United States independence, in 1780, and in return the Sultan set up a legation for the United States. There was a lot of historical information including the legation’s involvement during World War II of Operation Torch, designed to liberate French North Africa.

There was a room dedicated to the Scottish artist and etcher James McBey and his American wife, photographer and bookbinder Marguerite Loeb. They lived in Tangiers for 20 years.

We spent some time in the Museum of Mediterranean Cultures within the Kasbah (fortifcation) of the Medina, overlooking the straits of Gibraltar. Along with ancient artifacts, there were beautiful rooms of arabesque style and marble fountains. I enjoyed following a tortoise in the courtyard gardens.

We finished our guided tour wandering through the Big Market, past the oldest cinema in Tangiers and amazing Spanish architecture.

So we were well versed in Medinas. But that isn’t the only story. I’ve written separately about our journey from Marrakesh to Tangiers.

To the desert and back, Morocco

13 to 18 March 2026

From Casablanca we drove to the Sahara Desert on the Algerian border, over the Atlas mountains, then back to Marrakesh. We covered 1,500 km in 5 days and saw life in the mountains and the desert. A fabulous journey.

We arrived in Casablanca 52 years after our last visit to Morocco. We didn’t get this far south, we only reached Fez in our VW campervan. I can’t remember modesty as we see now – perhaps I was naïve in my short shorts and singlet top, So this time we’re looking forward to exploring more of the country.

Casablanca is a big city and it had two major attractions for us.

The first is the mosque. The Hammet II Mosque is the third largest in the world after two in Saudi Arabia. This one was extraordinarily decorated and large. It sits on the edge of the Atlantic Ocean.

The second attraction is the reinvented Rick’s Café from the movie Casablanca. We stopped there and had a lovely lunch with fantastic service. coincidentally, we had watched the old movie on our flight here.

It’s Ramadan so we have really been challenged to have a meal as most restaurants are closed and alcohol is not permitted in this period, except in international hotels.

We set off next day to go east. Our destination was Murzeug in the Sahara desert close to the Algerian border, about 440 km as the crow flies.

There was a lot of driving, a lot of sitting in the Mercedes mini bus, just the two of us and our driver Mahdi.

Our first stop was Xaluca Dades Hotel in Imlil, at 1,820m in the Atlas Mountains. It would be fair to say that the hotel was really a guest house which had 13 rooms. We walked into the Berber village, there was little more to do there than photo opportunities of the high mountains around us. The Tagine meal is rather disappointing as it lacked flavour, I think we were spoiled with flavours in Tunisia.

We had a 7am start and headed back towards Marrakesh then drove east to the desert. The stony desert at an elevation of about 1,200m just kept going and going.

We stopped at Dades to see the Kasba, which is a fortified town. We hired a guide who took us up to the top of the old village where the ninth century fort is. The view across the valley was amazing.

We opted for an easy salad lunch, similar to the Tunisian salad but without the tinned tuna. It’s finely chopped tomato, onion and cucumber, generously laced with olive oil and lemon juice. It became a favourite.

The hotel in Dades was sumptuous, quite a contrast from the little guesthouse the previous night. It was set high in the village with fantastic views all around. For the first time, we saw a lot of tourists, and they were hungry, going by the rush in the dining room.

We set off east again, but via the Toudgha Gorge, a narrow 300m wall, carved deep into the mountains. Then it was a very long journey to Merzouga and the Sahara Sky Luxury Desert, just 17km from the Algerian border. The orange sand was bright and cheerful, after hours driving through the stony desert mountains.

We were entertained at the camp by four waiters, come musicians with their drums. We even learnt a few beats,

Another long drive to Ouarzazate, over 400km. It was Ramadan and our driver was fasting. We worried about his concentration on these long drives. Fortunately he appeared to manage without loosing too much energy.

We spoke to a number of Moroccans, and the singular message was that Ramadan was a time of reflection, detoxifying and importantly, family time. They appreciated it.

We hired a guide to show us the Taourirt Kasbah in Ouarzazate. I appreciated seeing how the homes were laid out for one or more families. Renovation of the Kasbah is nearly complete, following an earthquake in 2023. It had some beautiful rooms.

After an interesting night in a Berber guest house, we toured the Atlas Film Studios. These are a huge source of revenue for Morocco. Netflix, HBO and others use these studios for big movies and quick to air series. The Russian tourists in our guided tour enjoyed the opportunity to dress up and play the parts.

As we drove down towards Marrakesh we passed through tiny villages where the local Muslim men and women were traditionally dressed. There were small market stores or shop fronts selling groceries, meat, fruit and vegetables, clothing and all the necessities of life.

More history in Tunisia, along the coast

6th to 9th March 2026

From the desert we headed to the coast and learnt more of Tunisia’s history.

The land was flat from the desert, and we crossed many salt lakes.

We reached Djerba, an island connected by a causeway. Djerba is known for its mixed cultures living harmoniously. We were introduced to pottery, perfumery and olive oil manufacturing. We visited the oldest known synagogue and the Jewish quarter with its wonderful mural. We visited the Turkish souq where Bruce found coffee, despite Ramadan.

Next stop was El Djem, home of the most intact roman colosseum – but it was never completed. We also visited the archaeological museum which had a reconstructed Roman villa and magnificent mosaics on display.

Our last stop for the day was a tour of the medina in Sousse.

We started our final day with a tour of the Ribat at Monastir. Next stop was the mausoleum of Habib Bourguiba the first president of Tunisia from 1957 to 1987, after they gained independence from France.

Our last stop at Hammamet was to visit George Sebastian’s eclectic home and then tour the medina.

Our time in Tunisia will finish with a couple of rest days (catch up on photos and correspondence), and then off the Morocco.

A cultural journey in Tunisia

2nd to 5th March

We left the ancient history of Tunisia behind, and embarked on a cultural tour, driving south to salt flats and the desert, home to the Berber people and a number of Star Wars locations.

We started our journey with a tour of the Great Mosque of Kairouan. It is considered one of the holiest and most important mosques in Tunisia.

We were also treated to a display of ethnic rugs. I loved the natural colours of the rugs, taken from white, brown and black sheep.

It was a long drive for our next stop in Tozeur, on the edge of the Sahara desert.

We were taken to the market, where our guide and chef Nabil Chokmani bought some fresh vegetables for a cooking demonstration. Then it was a quick horse and buggy ride to see a date plantation and learn just how important these palms are to Tunisia and its people.

Our lunch at the Eden Park Date Plantation with Nabil Chokmani was a spicy chicken with a salad and wonderful brick as starters. We then had more opportunity to learn about dates, their history in Tunisia and their uses.

In the afternoon we were taken by a four wheel Toyota to visit a mountain oasis, and a waterfall famous as a film set for The English Patient and Raiders of the Lost Ark. We returned to Tozeur via the desert, in a sand storm and were astounded at how the driver could “see” the road. This took us to the Star Wars set – Mos Espa (1997).

The next morning we toured the medina of Tozeur and in our free time returned to the market to indulge in a few photos of local produce and people.

Lunch was supplied each day, and today it was in a guest house. These old villas are becoming popular boutique hotels and restaurants.

A long drive, across the Chott El Jerid salt lake and deeper into the desert. Date palms were thinning out. We arrived at our desert camp in late afternoon and settled in to the sandy experience. In the evening musicians and a dancer entertained us, along with a horse and rider demonstration and an introduction to sand bread.

Next day we drove to Matmata where the locals have lived in underground troglodyte homes for centuries. This was inspiration for George Lucas films.

We climbed high into the Atlas Mountains with stunning, if not dusty views. Here we came to Ksar Hahda, another Star Wars filming location.

Our accommodation was in a Berber guest house, set high on the hill of Chenini. Masoud came to greet us and lug our cases up the hill, then showed us around the amazing terraced houses. I noted that our guest house was the highest on the hill. Quite a climb for these old legs.